My Albanian Life

Photo Walk - Gjirokastër, Albania

I went on another photo walk, as I have the habit of doing when visiting a city in Albania. It’s not only a way for me to practice one of my hobbies, but it also provides content for me to create a video for my YouTube channel.

In Gjirokastër, I spent basically the entire walk wandering around the bazaar area. It’s the main attraction of the town and most tourists only see this part of it. So much so, in fact, that sometimes I forget that there’s much more to the city further down the hill. In any case, I elected to go with a particular color this time which was yellow (in case you couldn’t tell from the photos below…).

I really pushed out of my comfort zone on this one. First, asking the owner of the restaurant I ate dinner at if I could take her photo. I just had to because the yellow shirt she was wearing just fit too perfectly into the entire project that I was doing. The fourth photo has a fun story behind it as well, that you can see if you watch the video, but simply put a guy saw me taking photos and when I explained in broken Albanian I was taking photos of things with yellow in them he led me into the upstairs of his shop. His son came running in to translate for us, and it was really just a lovely experience.

As I mentioned, if you want to see the interaction with the shopkeeper and his son, or if you want to watch me wander around struggling to find decent frames that had yellow in them, the video is linked below.

Selcka Waterfall - Experience Gjirokastra

About every 6 months I travel to the southern Albanian town of Gjirokastër. The NGO I work for operates a soup kitchen and after school program for some children there and I go in order to update the photos we have in our archive. For the last three or four times I’ve made the drive, I have tried to connect with a friend of mine. He runs a tourism agency called Experience Gjirokastra that explores the area surrounding Gjirokastër, Përmet, and Tepelenë. Because of weather, other responsibilities, or even just lack of time, we were unable to go out exploring. We had met a couple of times to have a coffee and chat, but never left the main bazaar area of the city. That is, until a few weeks ago…

Hotel Nertili

I’ve been trying to use my platform and craft to help promote tourism in Albania, and featuring places to stay around the country seemed like it fit perfectly with that goal. After dozens of messages to hotels and guesthouses around Albania, I finally got a positive response; Hotel Nertili.

Hotel Nertili is a family owned hotel, restaurant, and bar in Sarande, Albania. It was originally built in 2001, but has some ongoing renovations that began in 2020. The management of the hotel kindly offered me a three night stay to experience the hotel and to show it to the world in my own unique way. 

The Road Less Traveled

Because of where Pogradec is situated, to get to the southern parts of Albania there are two options. You can go north, to Elbasan then across the center of the country (where there aren’t any mountains) and then down a relatively new highway to the south. According to Google, it would take about four and a half hours. The second option is to go south along SH75, a windy, pot-hole filled road that is typically about one and a half lanes wide. It skirts the border of Greece, while passing by village after village and through the mountains in the south. It typically takes closer to five hours, if not more. If you know me, you know which road I take.

Driving this route had me thinking about an article I published a few weeks ago about why, if you’re visiting Albania, you should get outside of Tirana. More broadly, though, the kind of traveling I’ve fallen in love with. Granted, it would be a much easier, simpler, and smoother drive to go the northern route. It’s the route that almost everyone takes to get to Gjirokaster, and has some nice views along the way. It’s also the route that has exactly what you would expect along the way. That’s not me. Why take the highway when a more exciting route exists? Not only that, a route that you’re not quite sure what the next turn will bring. One that the majority of people in Albania have never been on, nor ever want to try. That sounds like a real adventure.

As I think about these two routes in terms of my life as a whole, it’s a fitting example. Although some day to day things can get monotonous, I like to think that my life is far from ordinary. When I think about the fact that my monotony is happening in this tiny country on the Adriatic Sea, I wouldn’t change it for the world. Little decisions throughout my life and my travels - like taking the road that other people wouldn’t want to just to see what’s along that journey - has shaped and changed my entire existence.

After all, didn’t Robert Frost say “Two roads diverged in a wood, and I— I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.” If I could go back to my 16 year old self sitting in American Literature class and show him this practical example of these poetic words, I would have immediately understood.  

It Only Takes One

I heard a quote one time that went something like this:


“One person can change the whole world for the better, as long as they don't give a damn who gets the credit.”

-Unknown


As you can see, I don’t know who said it. I don’t remember where I heard the quote, and throughout the research I did I was unable to find who originally said it. In either case, I think it rings true, but not quite in the same ways I used to think.

When I first heard the quote my first thinking was changing the entire world, as in every single person, place, and thing. But if you think at a much smaller scale, the impact of this idea can become so much greater. If you think in terms of how a country could change, or even a community. Not only that, the quote says “change the whole world for the better.” Better is relative. It doesn’t say save the world, or even just change the world. Those three little words at the end of that sentence make a huge difference. Changing something for the better doesn’t mean every aspect of it has been flipped, just that it is headed in the right direction.

When I started making YouTube videos in Albania I had one distinct goal: To change the world’s perception of Albania. The hope was that by showing what the people, culture, and landscapes were actually like, we could move away from the stigma of Albania that was created through the help of films like Taken. I thought that I would get famous by being the guy who is showing the world Albania. As it turns out, I gained a bit of fame and a was noticed for a short time, but it quickly faded when the next foreigner with a bigger following than me decided to come through the country. As first I would get a bit annoyed thinking, “I have been putting in the time in this country, why does that person get the recognition that I deserve.” And then, the quote came back to my mind; “…as long as they don’t give a damn who gets the credit.” I thought about my goal for my videos from when I started, and realized that my goal could be accomplished even if it wasn’t me being the face of it. I have no way of proving this, but there’s a good chance that my videos spurred someone to come visit Albania, which inspired someone else, which moved another foreigner, each of them with bigger influences than the last. Slowly, my goal is being accomplished, and I will likely never be thought of in it. I have helped to change this tiny world, now I need to stop giving a damn who gets the credit.

So now, in a similar vein, we come to my friend Sam, who also happens to be my supervisor at the nonprofit I work for. Sam has been devising a new permaculture project on a small plot of land nearby our campus. Agriculture is a big part of the Albanian livelihood and Sam hopes to figure out a way that the farmers around the country can shift from their monoculture farming to more of a polyculture practice. He has been doing small experiments with the plot he’s working on, in order to find the best methods for this climate and environment. His goal is not to be known as a revolutionary farmer in Albania, but rather to help make a small change in agriculture in this region that could vastly impact the entire world of the farmers that live here.

Even if only a dozen people have their perceptions of Albania changed through my videos, or the stories of people that I’ve inspired to come here, this country’s world has been changed for the better. Even if only two or three farmers see Sam’s practices, decide to give it a shot on their own farms, and realize how fruitful it can be, that is changing the world of those two or three farmers - and potentially their descendants for generations - for the better.

Off the Beaten Path

Since coming to Albania for the very first time in 2017, my eyes were opened. It was a country I’d not heard of before, and honestly had to Google where it even was before getting on the flight. But upon arriving not only did I fall in love with the country, I fell in love with this new way of traveling. The kind of traveling where you skip over the places that you see all over the internet, you don’t seek out the spots that you’ve seen on Instagram. Instead, you put yourself as far away from those places as you can. You look for the beauty in the places that are overlooked, or underrated.

Since coming to Albania, my desire to go to well-known countries is slowly diminishing. I want to visit those kinds of places that are so obscure that I have to look on Google Maps to even find out where they are. Not only that, upon arriving in those countries, I want to get lost in their cultures, in the countrysides.

When people tell me they visited Albania, but didn’t even leave the capital city it almost makes me cringe. Were it not for the airport being there, I could very happily live my entire existence in Albania without setting foot in Tirana. Not because I despise Tirana, but because to me the beauty of traveling and living in another country comes in the differences. In Tirana, many people will speak English, so communicating would be too easy. In Tirana, there are shopping malls much like the ones I would find back in the United States. They have Burger King, KFC, and rumor has it that Pizza Hut will be opening soon. But that’s not why I moved outside of the United States. I didn’t pack my life into a few suitcases just to find my little comfort bubble under the rule of a different government.

When people ask me what they should do in Albania, my first answer is almost always to leave Tirana. Sure, it has its uniqueness from other big cities around the world, but at their core all big cities are more or less the same. The charm of Albania - and likely many other countries - comes in the people, the cultures, the traditions… Many of which are dwindling in the capital. It is so quickly becoming westernized that it’s becoming harder and harder to find true Albania in it. Pockets of it exist, sure, but if you want to go swimming would you rather splash from one puddle to the next or jump, headfirst into the deep end of the pool?

Before Visiting Albania

Before traveling anywhere, most people search for a few insider tips on what to expect, how to conduct yourself, and the best times and places to visit. In this video I went over all of those things so that anyone who is hoping to visit the country will get all the information they need. I discuss the currency, how to get around, the language, where to stay, and more!

If you have ever considered coming to Albania, be sure to watch this video before you arrive!

How to get from the Tirana Airport to the City Center

There are two main ways of getting from the Tirana International Airport to the center of the city; taxi and bus. I will give a quick rundown of both of them, but I’ll be honest, the video is very short and simple and easy to follow.

Taxi

A taxi from just outside the center to the airport cost me 2000 lek ($17.50 USD) when I last went. It was super easy, simple and quick. Just found a taxi driver parked on the street and hopped in asking him how much the trip was. The pros of the taxi are that you can get them anywhere in Tirana, they take you right to the front door of the airport, and they are usually quicker than the bus. The con, however, is the price. It may not seem like a lot to tourists, but to those of us living and working in Albania it’s a bit expensive.

Bus

You can catch the bus from the middle of Tirana to the airport for 400 lek ($3.50 USD). There is a specific Airport-Center bus that parks behind the opera building right next to Skanderbeg Square (https://goo.gl/maps/AET3nGtrUTqV1eFf6). This is both the pick up to go to the airport and the drop off when you’re coming back. The bus leaves every hour, basically on the hour, from here to drive to the airport. Pros of taking the bus are that it’s very inexpensive… And that might be it. The main con is the location. If you’re staying nearby it’s fine. If you’re staying further out of town you might need to walk a bit. The bus drop off/pick up at the airport is just outside the doors next to the rental car kiosks. It’s fairly easy to find but just watch the video below if you’re concerned. Overall, the bus is a good option. Usually pretty quick and direct and plenty of space.

Again, to see how simple it all is, just watch the video. I’ll even show you exact locations and what’s around them.