About every 6 months I travel to the southern Albanian town of Gjirokastër. The NGO I work for operates a soup kitchen and after school program for some children there and I go in order to update the photos we have in our archive. For the last three or four times I’ve made the drive, I have tried to connect with a friend of mine. He runs a tourism agency called Experience Gjirokastra that explores the area surrounding Gjirokastër, Përmet, and Tepelenë. Because of weather, other responsibilities, or even just lack of time, we were unable to go out exploring. We had met a couple of times to have a coffee and chat, but never left the main bazaar area of the city. That is, until a few weeks ago…
The Road Less Traveled
Because of where Pogradec is situated, to get to the southern parts of Albania there are two options. You can go north, to Elbasan then across the center of the country (where there aren’t any mountains) and then down a relatively new highway to the south. According to Google, it would take about four and a half hours. The second option is to go south along SH75, a windy, pot-hole filled road that is typically about one and a half lanes wide. It skirts the border of Greece, while passing by village after village and through the mountains in the south. It typically takes closer to five hours, if not more. If you know me, you know which road I take.
Driving this route had me thinking about an article I published a few weeks ago about why, if you’re visiting Albania, you should get outside of Tirana. More broadly, though, the kind of traveling I’ve fallen in love with. Granted, it would be a much easier, simpler, and smoother drive to go the northern route. It’s the route that almost everyone takes to get to Gjirokaster, and has some nice views along the way. It’s also the route that has exactly what you would expect along the way. That’s not me. Why take the highway when a more exciting route exists? Not only that, a route that you’re not quite sure what the next turn will bring. One that the majority of people in Albania have never been on, nor ever want to try. That sounds like a real adventure.
As I think about these two routes in terms of my life as a whole, it’s a fitting example. Although some day to day things can get monotonous, I like to think that my life is far from ordinary. When I think about the fact that my monotony is happening in this tiny country on the Adriatic Sea, I wouldn’t change it for the world. Little decisions throughout my life and my travels - like taking the road that other people wouldn’t want to just to see what’s along that journey - has shaped and changed my entire existence.
After all, didn’t Robert Frost say “Two roads diverged in a wood, and I— I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.” If I could go back to my 16 year old self sitting in American Literature class and show him this practical example of these poetic words, I would have immediately understood.
Photo Walk - Tirana, Albania
A few weeks ago, I had a few hours in Tirana before my flight to Germany. So I decided to try to spend some time practicing one of my favorite hobbies; photography. Because I had to be in the city anyways, I elected to go on a photo walk and see what sort of images I would be able to capture.
I decided to challenge myself. In more ways than one…
First of all, my go-to way to take photos is to just wander around and snap as many frames as I possibly can and find the good ones later. So the first way challenge was to only allow myself 5 frames. I did not use a burst mode, or try multiple angles of the subject, I found the frame I wanted, and waited for the right timing.
The second challenge, was confining myself to a determined space. In the center of Tirana you have Skanderbeg Square. A large open area, mostly for pedestrians, that many people will pass through on their way to and from work. I set the square as my boundary, and forced myself to find the five photos in the confines of the general vicinity of the square.
And if you’re interested in watching me try to pick out the frames I wanted, the video is below.
Off the Beaten Path
Since coming to Albania for the very first time in 2017, my eyes were opened. It was a country I’d not heard of before, and honestly had to Google where it even was before getting on the flight. But upon arriving not only did I fall in love with the country, I fell in love with this new way of traveling. The kind of traveling where you skip over the places that you see all over the internet, you don’t seek out the spots that you’ve seen on Instagram. Instead, you put yourself as far away from those places as you can. You look for the beauty in the places that are overlooked, or underrated.
Since coming to Albania, my desire to go to well-known countries is slowly diminishing. I want to visit those kinds of places that are so obscure that I have to look on Google Maps to even find out where they are. Not only that, upon arriving in those countries, I want to get lost in their cultures, in the countrysides.
When people tell me they visited Albania, but didn’t even leave the capital city it almost makes me cringe. Were it not for the airport being there, I could very happily live my entire existence in Albania without setting foot in Tirana. Not because I despise Tirana, but because to me the beauty of traveling and living in another country comes in the differences. In Tirana, many people will speak English, so communicating would be too easy. In Tirana, there are shopping malls much like the ones I would find back in the United States. They have Burger King, KFC, and rumor has it that Pizza Hut will be opening soon. But that’s not why I moved outside of the United States. I didn’t pack my life into a few suitcases just to find my little comfort bubble under the rule of a different government.
When people ask me what they should do in Albania, my first answer is almost always to leave Tirana. Sure, it has its uniqueness from other big cities around the world, but at their core all big cities are more or less the same. The charm of Albania - and likely many other countries - comes in the people, the cultures, the traditions… Many of which are dwindling in the capital. It is so quickly becoming westernized that it’s becoming harder and harder to find true Albania in it. Pockets of it exist, sure, but if you want to go swimming would you rather splash from one puddle to the next or jump, headfirst into the deep end of the pool?
A week in Germany (and Switzerland...)
After a car ride to the Tiranë airport, flight to Munich, bus to Nuremberg, then car ride to Hubmersberg, I finally arrived at Hotel Lindenhof. It’s a 150 year old hotel that was built seemingly in the middle of nowhere, that has been added on to throughout the last century and a half. Because of the restaurant and bar at the hotel, many of the farmers from the surrounding area would come to have a drink or to eat with their families eventually resulting in the village of Hubmersberg being built surrounding the hotel.
Because this hotel is a partner of the organization I work for in Albania, I was asked to go and take photos in order to update their website, and have social media content. I spent a couple days at the hotel, before traveling to Switzerland and another part of Germany to take event photos for other partners of my work.
Why I Travel
It is my firm belief that everyone travels for some of the same reasons. However, it is also my firm belief that everyone travels for some different reasons. When I really sit down and pick through all the thoughts in my head I can think of countless reasons that I enjoy traveling, some of them more typical than others.
Like so many people, exploring new places is a prominent reason for me. Seeing things for the first time with my own eyes, despite never being able to be the first to discover them. Learning about new and different cultures. Broadening my experiences and knowledge so that I can better understand myself, my fellow man, and everything around us. Pushing the boundaries of my comfort zone. To grow as people we must be pushed, and the easiest way to do that is to push ourselves. Tasting new foods, hiking different trails, feeling the vibes of a city we have never been to… The list of reasons we can all relate to could go on forever. But, honestly, those all feel like the easy answers. They feel like something I would say in order to avoid diving into the real reasons…
For a long time, traveling felt like the only way I could feel appreciated. I would often choose traveling alone and meeting new people over diving deeper into preexisting relationships with friends. The depth scared me, and it seemed like if someone saw who I really was they wouldn’t come back. It happened a few times, so it seemed like a logical reason to go off in search of new acquaintances in order to protect myself from the potential hurt of being let down yet again. People seemed to enjoy talking to me at first but without a doubt, many decided their life would be better without me in it. Few cared to be loyal through my rough patches. So, I traveled in order to feel loved, even if it was only for a single conversation at a time.
Things have changed, however. Over the years I have moved into a place where I crave depth over breadth in my friendships. I have moved on from fair-weathered friends, and not shied away from showing my true self. If they don’t want to accept that, so be it, but I’m not going to run from it any longer. Life is too short.
So now, I tend to fall back to the typical reasons for travel, but with new eyes. Realizing that it could be an escape, yet not letting it be that. I could keep these experiences and wonders for myself, but that starts to feel selfish. There are wonders out there that I have been blessed to see and others have not. So I have places to show. There are adventures that I have been gifted with. So I have experience to share. There are places that are overlooked, and unknown, with some of the kindest and most generous people I’ve ever known. So I have stories to tell.
And that, is why I travel.
How to get from the Tirana Airport to the City Center
There are two main ways of getting from the Tirana International Airport to the center of the city; taxi and bus. I will give a quick rundown of both of them, but I’ll be honest, the video is very short and simple and easy to follow.
Taxi
A taxi from just outside the center to the airport cost me 2000 lek ($17.50 USD) when I last went. It was super easy, simple and quick. Just found a taxi driver parked on the street and hopped in asking him how much the trip was. The pros of the taxi are that you can get them anywhere in Tirana, they take you right to the front door of the airport, and they are usually quicker than the bus. The con, however, is the price. It may not seem like a lot to tourists, but to those of us living and working in Albania it’s a bit expensive.
Bus
You can catch the bus from the middle of Tirana to the airport for 400 lek ($3.50 USD). There is a specific Airport-Center bus that parks behind the opera building right next to Skanderbeg Square (https://goo.gl/maps/AET3nGtrUTqV1eFf6). This is both the pick up to go to the airport and the drop off when you’re coming back. The bus leaves every hour, basically on the hour, from here to drive to the airport. Pros of taking the bus are that it’s very inexpensive… And that might be it. The main con is the location. If you’re staying nearby it’s fine. If you’re staying further out of town you might need to walk a bit. The bus drop off/pick up at the airport is just outside the doors next to the rental car kiosks. It’s fairly easy to find but just watch the video below if you’re concerned. Overall, the bus is a good option. Usually pretty quick and direct and plenty of space.
Again, to see how simple it all is, just watch the video. I’ll even show you exact locations and what’s around them.
Best Year of My Life - 2021
I’m thoroughly convinced that each year of my life is better than the last, and 2021 was no different. Sure, every year has its ups and downs but I never want to be caught looking back and thinking, “Man, remember that other years? It was way better than this one.” For that reason, I make sure to edit together a recap video of each year. This way, I can have a visual reminder of all the things that I did in each and every year and can recall those memories much easier.
This year’s recap took a bit longer to finally put together, but it’s better late than never. Because when I look back on this 2021 recap video in 5, 10, or 20 years I won’t worried about when I uploaded it… but I do know I would regret not uploading it at all.
Cheers, 2021, thanks for the ride!